First Half the South Downs Way

We had enjoyed a most agreeable Sunday afternoon in Winchester as a prelude to our walk along the South Downs Way. The ancient cathedral city is always a delightful place for strolling around, exploring the ancient lanes, seeking riverside paths, admiring the wonderful architecture and, of course, contemplating the fabulous cathedral. I always find it hard to comprehend that the construction of the magnificent edifice started soon after William the Conqueror’s 1066 invasion.

We were staying at the venerable Wykeham Arms, a coaching inn dating from the eighteenth century. After enjoying a full breakfast to set us up well for a full day’s walking, we lingered a while over further cups of coffee. It was fascinating to watch the parade of smartly suited schoolboys and mortar boarded teachers, academic gowns flowing behind them, marching purposefully on their way to classes at the country’s oldest public school.

From the town mill, the official starting point for the walk, we followed the delightfully clear and fast-flowing River Itchen before winding upwards through suburban roads to cross the M3 by a footbridge. We were then into the countryside proper, and hiking for a couple of miles along a flattish trail at the edge of stubbly fields, in typical chalk downland scenery. Emerging into the pretty little village of Chilcombe, we climbed up and out of this tiny commuter settlement through some ancient beech woods which afforded some welcome shade and coolness from the already scorching sun.

Crossing the A272 we entered some further woodlands before reaching more fields of stubble offering panoramic views over large swathes of Southeast England. Back again over the main road, we took a driveway down to Holden’s Farm, which also played host to a small campsite with a little tuckshop where we enjoyed an indulgent ice cream. Walking on after the brief break, we took farm tracks through the rolling chalk downs and across extensive acreages of wheat.

We then came to the Beacon Hill nature reserve, affording views down to the Solent and the Isle of Wight beyond. Descending a steep, convex chalk escarpment and crossing a series of gently sloping pastures, dotted with sheep, we emerged at the pretty little village of Exton, close to the A32, Fareham road. Our accommodation was at the George and Falcon a couple of miles up the busy road, so we phoned for a cab.

After a decent dinner, a chat with some fellow walkers and a couple of pints to rehydrate, we took an early night. Fifteen miles in the scorching sun can take its toll.

The next morning, we enjoyed a relaxed but hearty breakfast, where we took on board plenty of calories for the day ahead. After picking up our packed lunches, the cab from the day before took us back to Exton, where we could resume our trek. After crossing the busy road, we immediately found the tranquil and bucolic Meon Valley before climbing a broad sweep of pastureland and stubble to Old Winchester Hill. The trail continued along a ridge at the top of Winchester Hill before cutting down to Whitewall Lake.

The scene that greeted us here could have come from a Constable painting. The picturesque pool was home to a commercial trout fishery and keen anglers were dotted around the shore, demonstrating their fly-casting skills with mixed results. One chap over the other side managed to catch an impressive oak tree, presumably not his intention, while the chap fishing close by us was constantly placing the fine specimen he caught in his keep net.

We stayed awhile, making instant coffees and dropping our cash into the honesty box. It was just so lovely and peaceful, the quiet serenity occasionally disturbed by the swish of a cast, the cooing of wood pigeons, or the squawk of some ducks having a bit of an argument.

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